CENTRAL HIGHLAND TRIP DIARY
written by Tran Van Quyet quyet@vietnamimpressive.com

Having been experienced such a long, tired but a good learning trip to the Central and Central Highland of Vietnam

DAY 1     29 APRIL EVENING
19h00: The S1 express train left Hanoi. This train is extremely exact in departure (please always to be present the train station at least 20mins in advance). We logged in 6 person compartment with air-conditioning which is quite comfortable. There is another 4 person compartment which is apparently better especially for the foreign travellers. With 6 berth, we feel happy since this time was top high season, the occasion of Liberation Day and Labour Day so there were lots of travelers everywhere!

The train arrived Hue after very short stops (around 5 minute each) at Nam Dinh, Thanh Hoa, Vinh, Dong Hoi and Dong Ha stations. Of course you donot need to get out if you really donot want to otherwise, please keep on sleeping!

DAY 2     30 APRIL
06h30 Hue: Now it is time to get up and have breakfast. You will be served a light and simple breakfast included in your ticket price. You are recommended to get more for you with the serviceman – there are lots of more choice for you

The train continues to Danang passing Hai Van tunnels. An excellent chance for you to view the spectacular of Haivan and beautiful Langco beach

1038 Danang: The train entered  Danang station. We were both warmly welcomed by colleagues at Danang office represented by Mr Tra, branch Manager who later our vice tourleader in charge in explaining points of the whole trip and Mr Tuan, Operation to coordinate with Mr Tra making the trip success

We sat in a very relaxing 30 seater bus which is new and good quality in order to be safe for the coming adventurous trip which roads includes Pass.

The first stop is marvelous China Beach after passing Cham Museum (we did not visit Cham as matter of time) and we inspected one new resort which is being under construction in an effort to serve tourist there. Date of completion is not specified.

12h00 Hoian: We met two small families ie Mr Linh and Mrs Van in our office who arrived Hoian before us at Pho Hoi II restaurant. Though, the restaurant is not entirely located in the heart of Hoian charming town near Hoian ancient streets but Pho Hoi gains reputation and praise through its wonderful architecture in a large area dotted by trees and flowers as well as its quality of food with variety of dishes

14h00 Hoian inspection: We did not want to waste anymore time so we decided to take the inpection tour  to numbers of hotels and resorts in Hoian and Cua Dai which you will later see details in HOTELS section

16h00: We stopped at Indochine hotel which on the riverbank of charming Thu Bon river to have a welcome drinks and short hotel inspection then began our sunset cruise on the river

The management of Indochine is so kind and generous to offer us this marvelous activity. During 30 minute leisurely on boat, you will never forget the moment contemperating the local life on the riverbanks

19h00: Dinner at Panorama restaurant on the top of the Indochine. Though the quality of the dinner is far below normal (we most were hungry after the dinner) but we are most grateful since the Indochine said they were over crowded with guests!

21h00: We checked in at 2 hotels into 2 small groups. One was at Van Loi** star and another at Ancient House**star. We actually cancelled stay at Le Domain de Tam Hai at Nui Thanh district of Quang Nam as we did not have enough time

DAY 3    1 MAY
Quick breakfast
Seems Ancient House is better in serving breakfast than Van Loi. We had complaints from group staying at Van Loi due to the very simple breakfast. Anyway, our task is ahead!

07h00: We gathered and departed to Kontum along 1A to Mo Duc of Quang Ngai then followed the inter-provincial road passing Ba To leading to Kontum

Both roads are very good in condition so it was long but we all did not feel too tired. We passed all the way long and arrived Kontum late afternoon

The two first stops were  Chien Dang and Bang An Cham towers. Chien Dang is around 10 km and Bang An is around 30 km from Hoian on the road/subroad heading south. Both towers surprisingly remains most of their structure with the time. Like most of the other Cham towers we find in My Son, Nha Trang or Dinh Dinh

09h30: We continued the way to My Lai village, Son My district of Quang Ngai passing Tam Ky provincial city of Quang Ngai, Chu Lai former US airbase (we did not visit)

11h00: My Lai village
Among us some have known, some not yet about this massacre of over 500 unarmed villagers of My Lai village, Son Tinh hamlet, Son My district, province of Quang Ngai in 1968

We gathered at guestroom located by the site of the masscre and then were guided to see the traces as well as the stories of the massacre

The objective of the American military mission was clear: search and destroy the My Lai (pronounced, somewhat ironically, "me lie") hamlet of Son My village in the Quang Ngai Province of South Vietnam. What wasn’t clear was what to do with any civilians who might be encountered at My Lai. On March 16, 1968, Charlie Company, a unit of the US Eleventh Light Infantry Brigade, was ordered into combat by Captain Ernest Medina. The 150 soldiers, led by Lt. William Calley, stormed into the hamlet, and four hours later more than 500 civilians -- unarmed women, children, and old men -- were dead. Charlie Company had not encountered a single enemy soldier, and only three weapons were confiscated. The only American casualty was a soldier who shot himself in the foot. It was a massacre that would haunt the conscience of the US Army and the American people. However, it seems to have been forgotten.

Nowadays, the authority built a statue to remember the deaths

13h00: Lunch at a small local restaurant in Quang Ngai

14h30: We stopped at Ba To Museum, one of the craddle of Viet Minh. We were lucky to be welcomed and introduced by Museum’s Director (it was Sunday, staff was on leave). The Museum locates on the side of inter-provincial road 24 Quang Ngai – Kontum. It is recommended place to visit on the way

19h30: We arrived at Kontum and checked at at Dakbla hotel. Unfortunately one thing happened beyond our plan ie the hotel did not record our dinner to be provided on arrival then we had to find a restaurant there. Mr Tuan made a wonderful thing happened to successfully find a very good, reasonable price at town.
Long day ends

DAY 4    2 MAY
Breakfast
Today trip promised an easier one as  we had to pass only (!) over 150km from Kontum to Pleiku. This was our the best day we had. Escorted by Mrs H’ble (local guide of Gialai tourist) to visit Pleiku, Dakbla river, central highland Nha Rong (communal house), Yali hydro electric power plant, Sesan river, Giarai ethnic people farming, Giarai’s typical funeral especially the performance of Gong show

08h00: We started Pleiku ciytour. Highlighted with Pleiku’s wooden Cathedral, Dakbla river with a suspension bridge and Nha Rong of Giarai people. Each places brought us a different feeling on the land and people of Pleiku

10h00: Yali hydro electric power plant
Twenty kilometres downstream of the Yali Falls Dam, about 50 km from Cambodia, a second dam is being built on the Se San River.

In June 2002, Viet Nam announced its commencement on the construction of the 260-megawatt Se San 3 dam. The US$263.5 million hydropower project is reportedly financed by domestic investment funds and foreign loans, and will take four years to complete.1

Construction of the dam will create a 17 km-long reservoir. Upon completion, the new dam is expected to add 1.2 billion kilowatt hours of electricity to the national grid annually.2

The Vietnamese government also envisages that the Se San 3, combined with the Yali Falls hydropower plant on the same river, will provide sufficient electricity power to approximately 3 million people in the Central Highlands.3

However, to the inhabitants of the Se San River Basin, the beginning of the Se San 3 dam construction is a worrying sign of more problems to come.


13h00: Had lunch at Minh Tuan restaurant. This is an excellent restaurant in such a remote area (tel. +60 845411 – see also section below)

14h00: Giarai ethnic people farming, Giarai’s typical funeral. It was wonderful to know and to pass through vast farms as well as get to know the traditional side of Giarai’s people funeral

The ritual is called Lễ Bỏ Mả (Grave Hut Removal Rite). In this day, villagers gather at the cemetery ground and the family members bring food offerings. After the offerings are given to the deceased, villagers are to sing songs, dance and enjoy the drink and the food taken down from the altar. They have the belief that the deceased has returned to join the feast with those alive

17h00: Arrived Pleiku
Soft treking to visit village of Bana people
Relaxing time

20h00: Gala dinner and Gong’s show
Took part in the Gong performance and drank Ruou Can (Can Wine). All in one round with Xoang dance…An unforgetable night!

22h00: Overnight on the house-on-stilt with separate matress and mosquito nets
Though the accomodation condition is so basic and simple but brought us a good sense experience such a good cultural charater of the ethic people of Pleiku.
A fantantic day ended

DAY 5    3 MAY
A longest day begins!
We got up all early in order to be in time for flight Danang – Hanoi by VN316 etd 19h05. We passed almost 350 km on National 14 road (branch of Ho Chi Minh trails) and Ho Chi Minh trails through historic former batter sites include Victory Monument of Dak To, Hill 42, Phoenix airfield, Charlie hill, Ngoc Hoi, Loxo Pass and Kham Duc.

One of the bloodiest battles of the war takes place in the Central Highlandsnear Dak To. About 4,500 troops of the US 4th Division and 173rd Airborne Brigade face off 6,000 North Vietnamese troops of the 174th regiment. TheNorth Vietnamese are forced to withdraw, with 1,455 dead troops. US casualities numbered 285 killed and 985 wounded.

We arrived at Kham Duc town at around 13h00 - what a long trip until that time! We had to stop for lunch

Sau Binh restaurant at no.7 Kham Duc, Phuoc Son, Quang Nam is actually the best restaurant in this small bustling  town

14h00: I and Mr Tra took time to inspect a small hotel named also Kham Duc. This is small 40 room hotel used to welcome expats working at for the highway rehabilitation project and Phuoc Son gold mills

14h30: We headed to Danang. Actually Kham Duc town is not far from Danang (~125km) under the very good road condition

17h30: We arrived Danang and took a short citytour to on one side of Han river in Danang then transfered directly to Danang airport for advanced procedure to board flight to Hanoi in the evening

Some of our colleagues extended stay in Hoian  for a cooking class

Half of us took VN316 flight back Hanoi
Trip ended